Limestone Coast

Ship Ahoy!



On our journey from Victor Harbor to Robe on the Limestone Coast we once again passed the Langhorne Creek area and then boarded the car ferry at Wellington to cross the Murray River, only a five minute journey. The Murray River actually flows into Lake Alexandrina at Wellington and then the road took us down the eastern side of the lake and along the coast line of the Coorong National Park. The national park is largely made up of a string of saltwater lagoons sheltered from the effects of the Southern Ocean by the sand dunes. Its an important waterbird habitat and hundreds of species of plants, birds and native wildlife inhabit this 140klm stretch of fragile ecosystem. There is also cultural and historical significance to the Ngarrindjeri people who have 6,000 years of history in the Coorong.

Lakeside Manor

Robe is a seaside town on Guichen Bay where we stayed for three nights. I was fascinated by the heritage listed Lakeside Manor, a grand 1880's sandstone mansion which is next to the Caravan Park and in fact the original stables have been converted to the office for the Park. The manor is currently used as youth hostel accommodation and inside there are 17 rooms, the largest 30' x 12'; a 40' long hallway; the grand library has bookshelves measuring 18' long by 12' high of blackwood and mahogany; ceilings are 12 to 15 feet high and it has 8 Italian marble fireplaces, etc. The large "for sale" sign out the front was tempting and there was a definite drool factor imagining the potential of renovating this grand old building and its gardens. Its probably a tad to big for us anyway!

Robe is a delightful town of heritage buildings, trendy pubs, restaurants, lovely beaches, known for its prized rock lobster and recreational fishing. On Lacepede Bay north of Robe is the town of Kingston where one store claims the title of Australia's best fish and chip shop and on two separate occasions no less (we had already eaten), and nearby Cape Jaffa which has a newly developed marina and housing estate and is home to a fleet of twenty cray boats. The Mt. Benson cellar doors are just down the road with a fine selection of cab savs and shiraz to sample from this newly established wine region.

We moved on to Mt Gambier driving through pine forest country, the town of Millicent and nearby Snuggery which is home to the Kimberley Clark Wood Pulp Mill, which manufactures much of Australia's household tissue paper. We stayed a couple of nights in Mt Gambier which allowed us time to have a couple of minor repairs completed on the van.

Wynns Cellar Door

A day trip took us on the Riddoch Highway to the town of Penola, the heart of the Coonawarra district, with more of those gorgeous heritage cottages and rose gardens and where they also make great meat pies (terrific pastry) and scrumptious ginger slice that complement the fantastic wines. Its always a great experience to drive through the vineyards and to arrive at the magnificent sandstone building of Wynns Estate was like the icing on cake. We have been so good protecting our temptation to sample! Guess what, we fell off the wagon!



Blue Lake

Mt Gambier is set amidst a unique and ancient landscape of volcanic craters, lakes, caves and sinkholes according to the tourist info. Blue Lake which is the city's water catchment holds 30,000 million litres and the colour changes from a steel grey in winter to a brilliant turquoise in summer. The lookouts gave us panoramic views over the city, lakes and hinterland.

A short drive to the coast and the historic Port MacDonnell and Cape Northumberland where the remains of South Australia's first mainland lighthouse is still visible.. Originally a trading port the lighthouse commenced operation in January 1859 and was of great importance to the ships navigating this treacherous coastline. It was abandoned and replaced in 1881 to the east when the pounding seas made inroads under the foundations and gale force winds caused tremors. Today rock lobster fishing fleets operate from here and it's popular for sport fishing with record size tuna fish being caught in these icy waters.

Cape Northumberland Western View

We were looking forward to the next stage of our journey the "Great Ocean Road" across the border in Victoria.