Monday, April 18, 2011

The Great Ocean Road

Port Fairy

After leaving Mt Gambier we headed east into Victoria and somehow missed the border crossing sign, i.e., if there was one, and continued along the Great Ocean Road to Portland on the Discovery Coast. Portland is documented as Victoria's birthplace, the site of the first settlement in the state in 1834 by the Henty Brothers who arrived in the Ladybird from Tasmania. We had a quick look see around town and decided to travel further for the day and return another time.

Our destination was Port Fairy, a most delightful seaside village on the Moyne River with a sheltered harbour filled with fishing boats, wide tree lined streets, stately Norfolk pines along the highways and byways, and like most towns on the Shipwreck Coast has a history centered around whaling, fishing, and agriculture. The old world character of the town is enhanced by the imposing dark grey bluestone of the historic buildings which contrast with the timber cottages many perfectly preserved from the 19th century. We took a run along the coastal reserves east of town which are significant in their Aboriginal heritage and rich in native wildlife.
Warrnambool Maritime Museum
A twenty minute drive to the east took us to Warrnambool, the largest city in the region situated on beautiful Lady Bay and on the day we visited the weather was true to form of late, ordinary. The breakwater which interestingly was constructed way back in 1890 to protect the Port was awash with spectacular waves due to the high winds and rain squalls. Nearby is Logan Beach known as Victoria's Southern Right Whale Nursery where every year the whales return to calve between June and September. The heritage listed lighthouse located in the Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village has been keeping Lady Bay safe for over 150 years. We ventured into the hinterland between the two towns to check out the extinct volcano at Tower Hill where we had fantastic views along the coastline.


Bay of Islands


The morning we left we had a text from eldest daughter to say baby on its way and sure enough some 3 hours later Siena Rose arrived in this world - the whole 9lbs 2oz, phew, good job Mum. Number 6 grandchild and another little girl to love. Tempted to keep driving into Melbourne to check out her credentials but decided to hang out at Apollo Bay for a few days instead. The drive took us past the Bay of Islands, The Twelve Apostles Marine National Park (and now there are only eight, I think, as the force of the ocean swallowed them), Cape Otway and its famous lighthouse on the most southern point and a winding mountain road through the Great Otway National Park.

The Long and Windy Road


We stayed at Marengo a couple of kilometres west of town and 30 metres from thundering surf and it felt like the wind was blowing directly from the Antarctic with the chill factor when we arrived. Rough seas and huge waves pounding the rocky shoreline, nothing knew here but the sun was shining - yeah! It was time for us to simply stop for a few days, catch our breath and enjoy the warmest days we have experienced since Port Vincent in SA.

Marengo Coastline



The Marengo holiday park is also on the Great Ocean Walk and as I am up at daybreak with the four legged people we had long treks checking out the awesome early morning views of this rocky coast. The other half, alias snoring beauty missed out on this. Just as well I didn't see the sign "beware of snakes in this area" until the last day or I may have curbed my walks through the undergrowth to the beach.



We left Marengo early morning in a pea soup fog and it was the slowest 70 kilometre run on the whole trip travelling on one of the windiest section of road in the country. The day cleared to spectacular sunshine and around every corner we had amazing view of rugged cliffs, beautiful bays and the awesome southern ocean as we passed by the well known holiday destinations of Lorne and Aireys Inlet. The caravan park at Anglesea was the only one in the area to accept dogs so that became our base for few days and we enjoyed catching up with our friends Jeanette and Glynn from Torquay where the Great Ocean Road comes to an end.
Point Lonsdale Lighthouse
Torquay, and nearby Bells Beach the iconic surf beach home to the Rip Curl Pro surfing contest held over Easter every year, is also where the surf brands of Rip Curl, Quicksilver and Billabong are headquartered. The Bellarine Peninsula on Port Phillip Bay was close by for us to revisit the delightful seaside towns of Barwon Heads, Ocean Grove, Queenscliff and Point Lonsdale. The Point Lonsdale Lighthouse on the rocks at the western entrance to Port Phillip Bay overlooks "the Rip" where the water surges through and the bay fills and empties with the tides.

Food note to finish: Victoria's "Best Pie Award for 2010" at the Queenscliff Pie Shop. A clear winner in our 'delicious awards', and even though we have further to go it will take a a lot to better this one!

No comments:

Post a Comment