Friday, July 30, 2010

On our Way to WA

The Harry Potter Tree
We left Darwin heading west on the Victoria Highway on Friday 23rd July for an overnight stay at Katherine and then onto Timber Creek the next morning. Travelled through forest country and rich grasslands with Brahman cattle happily grazing in the paddocks along the roadside. East of the town of Victoria River the highway passes through the first section of the Gregory National Park. Spectacular ranges with dark layers of rock which look like iron ore, dark red soil and an abundance of green growth in the valleys and gorges. Crossed the Victoria River just before the town and a quick stop to take photos of the escarpments bordering the highway. The river weaves through this whole region and in many places is a kilometre in width and is the Territory's largest waterway. This is ooh aah country!

Onwards to Timber Creek through scrub country before entering the next part of the Gregory National Park and once again magnificent scenery of mountains and vistas. An overnight stop only and onwards the next morning to the border with the road running parallel to the Victoria River for a few kilometres. It looks so inviting with Pandanus palms dripping over the banks and sandy inlets but guess what inhabits these waters. Yep - crocodiles!

Victoria Highway at Victoria River

Apart from that revealing information we are now seeing the Australian species of Boab trees in all their funny shapes; fat ones, skinny ones, doubles, triples and multiple quantities standing together with their arm like branches ready to reach out and grab you, like the tree in the Harry Potter movie.

The remainder of our journey to the border was through the beautiful mountains of the Spencer and Pinkerton Ranges. Quarantine check at the border as no fruit and vegetables, as well as honey, seeds and nuts can be taken over to WA. The honey is an interesting one and the Quarantine Officer explained that the untreated variety in the eastern states contains spores which can have devastating effects on the "bee" industry in WA and of course no bees, no pollen, no flowers and no honey!. Jerry Seinfeld should have set his Bee movie here.

Instead of a half hour difference to Queensland we are now two hours behind and it really feels strange. It has taken a few days to get ourselves in the routine of the sun going down early and the dog wake up call around 5.30am when the birds chatter at sunrise. Ade wanted to start happy hour two hours early - I told him that is not a good idea!

Lake Argyle

Lake Argyle, our destination for a couple of nights, is 70 kilometres from the border and wow, what a stunning drive through the Carr Boyd Ranges to the Lake Argyle Tourist Village . The Lake was formed by damming the Ord River in 1971 and reclaiming a one million acre cattle property known as Argyle Downs which was owned by the Durack family. Michael Patrick Durack, came across to Wyndham from Darwin by boat in 1882 exploring this area before settling with his family. The original Durack family home made of local stone, along with headstones of family and faithful friends, was relocated before the flooding of the property. The family history comes alive reading the headstones and I liked the story of Pumpkin an aboriginal who travelled with Michael Durack from Darwin and remained his faithfull companion until his death. Dame Mary Durack, one of Michael's daughters and a noted author of numerous publications, wrote "Kings in Grass Castles" the story of the family history beginning with their mid 19th century migration from Ireland. I will have to add that to my must read list.

Infinity at Lake Argyle
My favourite part of our Lake Argyle stay was hanging out at the wet edge pool overlooking the Lake. Glorious sunshine and perfect temperature for swimming in this 'right out of a Hollywood movie' setting, and the water was freezing. One of the locals explained that the wind was blowing from the surface of the lake below and cooling the water as it spilled over the edge. Around 16 to 18C - somewhat bracing! I braved it and swam until my ears ached.

Next stop Kununurra only 70 kilometres to travel and one of Australia's largest salad bowls.
Dead Horse Spring

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