Darwin and the Top End

John McDouall Stuart Memorial,
Esplanade on Darwin Harbour

Lee Point Caravan Park on the northern point of Darwin was our camp site from the 6th July. 800 metres from the Timor Sea and we actually could see the water from the hill behind us and smell the sea - wonderful!

This area is part of the Casuarina Coastal Reserve, an area of indigenous cultural significance for the traditional custodians of Darwin and its surrounds, the Larrakia - Saltwater People. The sandy beaches and sandstone cliffs are fringed by Casuarina trees, mangrove and paperbark forests and beautiful blue water. The tides here can vary in height up to eight metres. Year round temperatures in Darwin are consistently around 32C degrees which is no hotter or more humid than Bali and Singapore, and this is our coldest month!
Darwin Harbour

Darwin (named after Charles Darwin,a scientist and evolutionist) is a modern city with a colourful past having been rebuilt after the devastating Cyclone Tracey on Christmas Day 1974, and prior to that it was almost completely destroyed by the Japanese during WWII. Darwin was first sighted by John McDouall Stuart in 1863 on his fifth attempt to travel from the south to the north and then settled by Europeans in 1869. The woofs had a day with "The Furry Godmother" (seriously that's the name) doggy day care on the Friday and we went exploring.

The waterfront precinct on Darwin Harbour which encompasses historical Stokes Wharf (that was featured in Baz Lurhmann's movie 'Australia'), is part of a recently developed area with a wave lagoon, bathing beach, Darwin's Convention Centre, high rise apartment complexes, and alfresco eateries set in beautifully landscaped streets and gardens. The new Parliament House which opened in 1994, and Government House are located nearby and have stunning harbour views. Government House was reconstructed in 1883 of stone after the original timber structure was destroyed by white ants and is referred to as The House of Seven Gables with louvred verandahs and tropical gardens. Many original style inner city buildings such as Lyons Cottage constructed in 1925; the Court House and Police Station built in 1884 (and rebuilt in 1981 after Tracey) featuring local "hammered" stone and in 2010 used as the administration offices for the Northern Territory Administrator; and Christ Church Cathedral with the front the original stone facade and the remainder a modern addition, are outstanding examples of the early architecture of our most northern city.

The Waterfront Wave Lagoon

The Old Courthouse and Police Station

Government House

The most interesting for me personally has been to learn more about the bombing of Darwin and particularly February 19, 1942. 115 tonnes of bombs were dropped on Darwin by the same Japanese fighters who devastated Pearl Harbour just ten weeks before. 250 people were killed and many more wounded. My father was here having just returned from fighting in the middle east and so was my Mum who had travelled to meet his ship. Darwin was the target of 64 air raids in 1942/43 and the first mainland site in Australia to come under attack. Lookout sites, gun placements, oil storage tunnels, bunkers, military airstrips and other significant memorabilia are well preserved around the city and the northern part of the Territory. Driving into Darwin we saw two original airstrips running parallel to the Highway.

Government House
A mate of Ade's, Keith Wyness (an Uncle Ben's old boy) introduced Ade to the Trailer Boat Club at Fannie Bay on a previous outing so of course I had to check it out. Our lunch, well I'm not sure if it even rates a mention. You know the scene, plastic tables and chairs which have seen better days; set under palm trees swaying in the idyllic breeze; the sand well a little courser than we are accustomed to on the east coast but it will do; the sound of lapping waves on the beach; yachts moored just beyond the shore in the bluest of blue water which goes on as far as the eye can see and the food, well what can I say. Salt & pepper calamari for me; I was so hungry I had to eat it all and Ade's seafood combination, I had to help him finish it. Suppose I should mention the bottle of Chardonnay to wash it down. As I say not even worth talking about!

We took a drive out to Wagait Beach via Berry Springs on the western side of the Port of Darwin. The surrounding areas are all flat like Darwin with thick undergrowth of tree ferns, spindly low growing palms, Pandanus trees set amongst shabby gum trees, not very exciting. Then when you get to the beach and the signs which are everwhere in the Top End, 'Crocodiles, Stingers, Jelly Fish Inhabit these Waters' - not very inviting. On the positive side, beautiful blue water, lovely sandy beaches and the most interesting coloured rocks of reds, pinks, yellows, oranges, greys which I recognised as the same colours in the original stone buildings in Darwin.

Keith, who is a Territorian of 28 years standing, joined us for lunch at our "Vagabond Camp" just before we left and we owe him a big thank you for his helpful advice on places to see and things to do in the Top End.

We extended our stay to get a service on the car and van. It's been tough hanging in here with the pool a short walk away, grassy areas for the dogs, shady trees and sunshine every day. Someone's got to do it!