Derby and Broome

Local Residents

We stayed at the Kimberley Caravan park in Derby on King Sound and spent four days enjoying the chance to stop in one place and explore this northern part of Aus. We had great neighbours, Kay and Colin from Bendigo and Sue and Bill from Melbourne and enjoyed a very pleasant time sharing our travel tales over a few drinks. We feel privileged to meet such a wonderful cross section of Aussies travelling our highways and byways like us.

William Dampier was the first to land in King Sound in 1688 though Derby wasn't settled by Europeans until 1879 and gazetted as a town until 1883. The Derby Jetty experiences some of the highest tides in the world of 11 metres and wool and pearl shell were the main exports from the first jetty built in 1884. In 1964 a new jetty was constructed to handle the export of lead and zinc products. The wharf is the most popular place for fishing due to the presence of those lizard like creatures (again) and swimming isn't on the agenda either for the same reason. The wharf is also the best place in town to view the stunning sunsets and tide changes.

A Moving Tribute

The local Aboriginal people have an interesting history here due mostly to the conflict between the whites and blacks. One particular Aboriginal, Jandamaera (Pigeon), a native tracker, was used by the police to track down his own people. He stole a gun, shot a local policeman and he then became the outlaw and was hunted and shot and killed. We followed his story on the heritage trail and visited The Old Gaol, the Boab Prison Tree which was the staging point for prisoners being walked into Derby to jail, and the local Cemetery where the Policeman shot by Jandamaera, PC Richardson was laid to rest amongst both the black and the white people.

We saw beautiful local art at the Mowanjum Centre featuring native animals and people depicted in a different style from the more common dot painting we have seen on our travels.

Our drive to the west coast and Broome on Monday morning was an easy 220 kilometres. Our camp was at what is deemed an overflow as all the van parks were full. So we were in the grounds of the local Police Citizens Youth Club and all the income from campers goes back to the Youth Club. It was a great spot, apart from that never ending red dirt, and we met delightful neighbours, Helen and Kev, Sydney residents (we didn't discuss State of Origin).

Cable Beach towards Gantheaume Point

The must see famous Cable Beach with 22 kilometers of pristine white sand was first on the touring agenda and yes it is a very pretty place but we don't think it is any better than our beautiful Queensland coastline. We had a visit to the beach at Gantheaume Point and could even drive the car on to the beach. WA is very dog friendly on their beaches as well - how civilised.

Broome was also visited by William Dampier in the same year as Derby, and Roebuck Bay named after his ship. Pearling became the main industry after the discovery of the world's largest pearl shell and in the early part of the 20th century produced 80% of the worlds supplies. The majority of the original divers were Japanese and they also came from China and Malay. Many lost their lives to the perils of retrieving these gems with the bends and sharks, and then the development of the plastic button almost brought pearling to an end in the 1950's. The cultured pearl, developed by Mikimoto of Japan, restored the industry and it remains a vibrant part of Broome today producing the worlds finest. I wandered through Chinatown which was once the bustling hub of Broome and home to billiard saloons, entertainment houses, opium dens and brothels. Two of the original pearling luggers have been restored and the Willie Creek Pearl Farm north of Broome takes you on a journey of how the cultured pearl is developed; it takes two years to grow them.

Adrian attempted to start a new chapter of the Sip & Sup Club in Broome with one of his old mates from the Gold Coast, Wayne, who owns the local Brumbys Bakery. I am now obliged to tell tales. After a long lunch downtown, a certain person was a little under the weather. So much so, after a request to walk the dogs he promptly fell down the two steps into the dogs playpen. One could assume and rightly so, he was in the "dog house" where in my opionion he belonged! I think the Broome Sip & Sup Club is more sip than sup and doomed!

The Port of Broome

Had this day occurred prior to my window shopping at the finest pearl outlets, namely Paspaley, Kalis and Linneys to name just a few, it may have turned into a very expensive trip to Broome.

So many places left to visit another time. Particularly Cape Leveque on the northern part of the Dampier Peninsula which I have been told, on good authority, is stunning and well worth the 200 kilometre drive some of it on an unsealed road. Also, the Stairway to the Moon is an event which happens along the northern part of the west coast when the moon is full and with a low tide, it appears there are steps to the moon. Have to return at the right time for that. Interestingly the moon is not visible in this western sky at any other time.